This is the script I used to do an editorial on BBC Out of Doorsat teh end of January 2013 following a number of accidents in the Scottish Mountains:
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"It would be a very
cold heart that didn’t miss a beat on hearing about the tragedy in Glencoe last
weekend. There will be funerals and memorial services in the coming weeks.
Inquiries will take place and reports will eventually answer the question - ‘what happened?’
But the question -
‘why?’ - will be the one that folk repeatedly ask their own inner selves - but will
struggle to answer. Especially those folk close to the victims.
20 years ago
Scotland had a string of very cold winters. Sadly there were many fatalities and
the government of the day was asking questions.
The winter of
93/94 was the first time in my memory that the right to climb itself was so
frequently drawn into question. I found myself repeatedly having to defend the
rights of climbers to go climbing in challenging conditions, - to be out on the
hills when a blizzard was blowing, - or when, heaven forfend, the hills were covered
in ice.
Today I’m old
enough to reflect that this was just ‘selling newspapers’ and you can guess the
worst culprits.
But at the time a
response was required. Words from that 1994 response - defending
mountaineering, attempting to explain, have an eerie resonance this week.
With hindsight - I
was also far more affected by the death of a friend in the mountains than I
cared to admit at the time.
When BMC and MCofS
met together in those days - there was always time for climbing. We worked hard
and climbed hard - with Bill Wright and Derek Walker (who sadly passed away last
week) - and with Andy Fanshawe.
Andy’s tragic
death on Eagle Ridge in 1992 haunted me in a way I couldn’t explain – but it
took 10 years before I overcame a nagging, mental block and finally completed
Eagle Ridge myself, perhaps - in the process - exorcizing a ghost.
Anyway - Here’s a part
of that 1994 reponse -
“It doesn't take
long before all the usual, hackneyed reasoning for risking life and limb begins
to sound glib in the extreme, - especially when it is a climbing pal who has
died.
Death in sport or
recreation can NEVER be JUSTIFIED.
All we can do is
accept it, and try to prevent it within the constraints that a civilised
society puts down. In other words we can educate, train, improve technology,
minimise the risk ......
But we can't ban,
we can't outlaw, nor should we condemn what - in many cases - we simply don't
understand. A society that indulges in reactions such as these - is not one
I wish to live in.
Most climbers tend
to adopt a fatalism toward such incidents .... regret at the loss of life,
tempered with a feeling that those who have died did so doing something that
they enjoyed.
But that still
sounds glib.
PERHAPS Less glib
- is the recognition that people climb hills because it is a very important and
rewarding part of their lives. A death will always be a waste, but it is also
true that the experienced climber's life was much enriched and more fulfilled.
PERHAPS - Most
realistic and convincing of all is the –
"There,
but for the grace of God, go I “ approach - which at least betrays a
recognition by a climber, that they too could die.
Much has been
written and said about why climbers climb.
Why they adventure.... why they take these risks.
But I have
struggled to find anything written anywhere that gives any satisfactory rationale
- for loss of life in the mountains. Indeed, the longer I climb the more I
realise - there is no rationale. Just
the fact that so many forget ...
Mountaineering is dangerous.
What is more, I
continue to believe there is no such thing as winter hillwalking in Scotland. Hillwalking
is a summer pursuit.
IN SCOTLAND, IN
WINTER, THERE IS ONLY MOUNTAINEERING.
On the wall, just
inside the door, at Plas Y Brenin in Wales, the words of Edward Whymper are carved
into a tablet of Welsh Slate. I recite the
passage to myself, almost as a mantra, at times of high risk in the mountains
.... descending some misty, cliff strewn, icy Scottish hillside. It has served
me well
"Climb if you
will,
But remember that
courage and strength
are nought without
prudence,
and that a momentary
negligence
may destroy the
happiness of a lifetime.
Do nothing in
haste
Look well to every
step;
and from the
beginning
think what may be
the end."
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